Where to Eat in the Saint-Germain
Where to eat in the Saint-Germain can be quite the decision – a toss up between modern innovations and trendy restaurants, or cafés and establishments with a long and rich history in Paris’ culinary scene. If you are only giving one meal of your vacation to the neighbourhood, think carefully about the type of experience you want.
If opting for the historical route, consider trying one of the famous cafes that have been in operation since the 19th century. Perhaps the most famous, with its green awning and squished outdoor seating is Café de Flore, which was founded in 1887. The menu is simple – classic French café staples on offer with a cart of desserts to have you licking your lips. The food is good; nothing out of this world but you’ll enjoy it regardless, especially with the busy streets as your backdrop. This café, like the others, is best enjoyed sitting outside or on the terrace, where you can people watch and take in your surroundings. Don’t look to try fancy Fresh dishes here, you’re better off with the café staples - see THIS LIST for classic French café options, worth trying when in France. While you could come here for dinner, it better lends itself to a late breakfast or lunch, or even just for a coffee and dessert.
Alternatively, you can opt for Les Deux Magots, which has been in the same location since 1885 – named after the shop that stood there until the café was formed. While a series of important French literary figures and philosophers frequented Les Deux Magots, it’s best known internationally for having seen the likes of Hemingway, Picasso, James Joyce, Julia Child, Camus and Sartre. Similar to Café de Flore, you’ll find all the café staples here, including omelettes, quiche, sandwiches, and salads. At night, the menu here begins to look more like that of a brasserie than café, but stick to it’s simpler options as that really is more their specialty.
Equally old in operation, you’ll find Brasserie Lipp just across from the two cafés mentioned above. Though it has been around equally as long, this restaurant definitely differs in menu offerings; here you’ll find Alsatian dishes to whet your appetite. What’s wonderful about Paris is that it provides the opportunity to try regional French foods that you might not otherwise try until you explore the rest of the country. Opt away from what you think is “traditional French food”, and taste some true classics of one of the loveliest regions in France. Go hearty with the choucroute garnie (strewed cabbage, like sauerkraut, with sausage) or stick to their specialty appetizer cervelat rémoulade, which is Alsatian sausage cooked in a cold mayonnaise based sauce.
If looking to go back further in time, consider Le Procope – it was founded in 1686 and has seen some of the biggest leaders in history dine here (i.e. Roosevelt and Napoleon). Here you can try French staples with their prix fix menu from Monday to Saturday, between noon and 7pm. After that, it switches to their dinner menu, which has just enough options that even a picky eater can be satisfied. Treat yourself to one of their original recipes, especially if you’ve ever wanted to try Coq au Vin.
If you’re less interested in a historical setting and more concerned with mouth-watering food and ambiance, newer restaurants Clover Green or Cyril Lignac Aux Pres are worth trying (reservations suggested, if not required). Le Recamier is a great choice if you’ve ever wanted a proper soufflé – sweet or savoury – though their starters and sides are equally delicious. The Michelin Guide would suggest KGB, as would every major travel magazine for that matter. It offers high quality food done simply, applying Asian influences to French cooking. However, if you prefer a little fancier and a Michelin star, consider making reservations at Relais Louis XIII. It’s by no means cheap but you won’t be let down with anything you order here, especially the Tahitian Vanilla Millefeuille for dessert. The same goes for Les Climats; another one-star Michelin restaurant that is relatively affordable. Unlike most other Michelin restaurants, this one doesn’t use tasting menus or prix fix, instead allowing you to order a la carte from its flavourful and fresh, albeit small, menu. And if you are really splurging, try three Michelin-starred Guy Savoy, which was named one of the best restaurants in the world in 2020.
If looking for gastronomy not local to French cuisine, Yoshinori is a great place to go all out, with awe inspiring tasting menus that never let you down. You’ll also find hearty American dishes with a gourmet approach at RALPHS. You’d be forgiven for not knowing that Ralph Lauren also has a series of restaurants that offer a classy East Coast vibe – very Ivy League chic – but his restaurant in Paris’ Saint-Germain might just be the best of the lot. With a lovely garden, it’s a wonderful little escape that tourists somehow never seem to find. They also do a large traditional brunch worthy of New York. Marcello is another restaurant that does a lovely brunch and an even tastier dinner – a popular little Italian restaurant with great cocktails to help you unwind after a day exploring.
When it comes to breakfast and brunch, you’ll find lots of grocery stores and coffee shops (Eric Kayser, Maison Pradier, Starbucks, etc.) to grab something quick, along with a few wonderful options if looking to sit down and treat yourself. While Café de Flore and some of the aforementioned restaurants will definitely make for a tasty option, this neighbourhood has a few wonderful brunch options to help you start the day.
Eggs & Co. is the cozy little breakfast spot that never ceases to have a crowd. There is nothing remotely pretentious about this tiny breakfast joint, and you definitely won’t leave hungry. This isn’t where you’re going for the Instagram perfect brunch, but where you’ll find hearty and comforting options as you recover from a night of too much wine. If you want that traditional brunch vibe consider Treize, regardless of the day of the week, which is not only ridiculously tasty but offers a comforting ambiance. If flavour and Instagram-worthy food is a consideration, try Claus or Saint Pearl.